Number Four, or "Again From the Top (with Soul, Daddy-O)"

As an infamously un-famous denizen of the ATH, I feel it's my responsibility to weigh in on a topic in which I carry some weight: Food. Especially that of the Southern/Country/Soul variety. In the last month or so, I've dined at most of the known soul food places in town, and feel I should share my knowledge.



Food For the Soul's Buffet
(ABH/Caleb Raynor/Staff)








Weaver D's -
Famous for an endorsement from REM a billion years ago, this seems to be the place that gets the most attention. When I moved to ATH years ago, I ate at Weaver D's and was thoroughly impressed. However, as the years went by, the quality seemed to fall off, all the way to the point that I stopped eating there several years ago. Well, I went back this summer and I'm glad I did. I don't know if I've changed, or if the restaurant actually got back to it's old self, but the food seemed back on track. The portions are satisfying, but the service is questionable. All the articles and attention over the years must have gone to Dexter's head, because he finished up a lengthy phone conversation before he took our orders and was short/border-line rude during the transaction. The food tasted fine, but there's definitely better fried chicken in town. The sides were on par with some of the best around, though. If you're in ATH and hungry for soul food, Weaver D's is worth the trip, especially if you're new to town/visiting and want to have the "Automatic foe the People" experience. However, if you're local and have eaten there before, pass on the landmark and opt for the better food offered right down Broad Street.

Peaches Fine Foods-
Peaches claims to be the "Best in the South," and I don't think they're too far off. They have the best Fried Chicken and corn bread in town, and the sides are top-notch. It's a cafeteria style, meat and 2 veg's set-up, but they have an all-you-can-eat option available. The variety on any given day is limited, but they manage to bring in some distinct options over the course of a week. The smothered chicken and the pork chops are worth ordering, but don't be tempted by the ribs; there's better elsewhere. Also, get there early. They're open from about 11 to 2, but sometimes they run out of food early and just don't cook anymore. The service is usually pretty good, but I've encountered some dead zones between 1 and 2. If you have one place to go in ATH, I'd recommend Peaches. It's better than Weaver D's, but get there before 1 for an optimal experience.

Wilson's -
I think Wilson's has been here just as long as Weaver D's, and I wish REM had chosen to give them the nod over Dexter's place. Wilson's fried chicken is almost as good as Peaches, but they offer a better selection of sides. It's the same meat/2-3 veg set-up that's standard in most of the other places, but it's location makes it stand out a little. It's right downtown on Hull Street and it's a great lunch to cap a day of shopping or begin an afternoon out. I've heard the sides are vegetarian, if that appeals to you. It doesn't matter to me as long as they taste good, and they definitely do. Everyone's usually very nice, and the breads and sweet tea are top-notch. Overall, it's a very solid addition to the southern/soul/country food scene in town. There's nothing bad to say about the place, but they're not necessarily the best at anything, either. It's straight up down home.

*** Weaver D's, Peaches, and Wilson's all run in the $7-$10 range. Peaches A-Y-C-E is around $12, though.

Food for the Soul: Soul Food -
This is probably my favorite place in town to catch a southern lunch. It's biggest draw? Buffet, Baby! Whatever they have, you can try. No strict 1 meat/2 side rule, and the a-y-c-e is reasonably priced at $9. They have a delicious Thursday treat, too: fried chicken livers. One down side is that the corn bread is nigh on terrible, but who needs it when you have some of the best fried and baked chicken, pork chops, and sides to choose from. Oh, the sides: many to choose from and all tasty. It's completely self serve and includes a dessert, something that costs extra at most places in town. For the variety and bang for your buck, this is the place I would recommend anytime. I try to eat there at least once a week, whereas Peaches and Wilson's are more like once a month. Also, if you're a late sleeper, this place is great because they're open to 5, and keep the food hot and fresh.

Chonell's ("Home Cooking", not "Plus Bar and Grill")-
Unfortunately, to me, Chonell's is more of an afterthought when it comes to southern food in ATH. It's tucked away in the old Kroger shopping center and you have to pass Peaches and Food for the Soul to get there. The counter is set up away from the entrance which can make ordering confusing, and the service is always (at least when I've eaten there) questionable to say the least. It's a standard meat/2 veg operation, drinks are extra, and lunch runs a little high at $8-$9. Stay away from the fried chicken here, it's bland and dry, which is disappointing since it's my personal fave and a staple to judge southern cuisine by. The sides I've had were equally unremarkable, and the corn bread's not great either. The Meatloaf is surprisingly good, however, and some of the sides I didn't order looked tasty enough. The tea is sweet and strong, but don't drink it too fast, because you might be waiting a while to get more. I would honestly say to pass this place by on your way to better restaurants closer to downtown.

Jewel's Buffet-
I feel bad discussing this place here because I definitely caught it at a weird time, but I'll include it none the less. First, 2 things that I like about this place are that it's a buffet and it's cheap ($9) for a-y-c-e. However, I got there late (about 1) and it looked like the food had been out since 11. The restaurant is in a large space, but it feels cavernous when you're the only customer. Jewel's is a relatively new place, but it's location seems to detract from it's business as the only other customers I saw came in as I was leaving. The food was not bad, despite it's appearance in the warmers, but you could tell that it was not fresh. One big draw was the ribs, which were still good, and the steak and gravy. The sides were questionable to say the least. The Mac-n-Cheese had congealed into an almost impenetrable shell of fried cheddar and the beans were greasy from sitting there all day. It's a self-serve, with good tea, decent bread, ad includes dessert. However, I left the dessert alone as it too appeared to have seen fresher times. If you try Jewel's, please go early (11-12) so you can give it a fair chance.

Downhome Cooking-
I remember when DH Cooking was out on Danielsville road in a large place with a big buffet and a lot of patrons. Then it moved, then it disappeared, and now it's re-incarnated into a meat/2-veg southern restaurant combo'd with Riverwheel Ice Cream parlor. The process for ordering is tricky at first, as all the outside signs proclaim "All You Can Eat", but once inside, you're told that there is no a-y-c-e, but you can order what you want beyond the m/2-v, but you'll pay for what you order. To avoid confusion, just stick to the standard format. The baked chicken is very good, and the sauteed okra is delicious (though it looks a little primordial ooze-y). There's a large, rural feeling, blue-collar, lunch crowd that adds to the down homeyness of it, and the employees are welcoming. The tea is good, and I think maybe dessert is included (that, or either we stole it). If you're out by Athens Tech, stop in for lunch, or pop-in for a tasty pick-up dinner in the early afternoon.

And, in the spirit of lists and rankings, here's my preference poll:
1. Food for the Soul
2. Peaches
3. Wilson's
4. Weaver D's
5. Downhome Cooking
6. Jewel's
7. Chonell's

Don't Waste Your Time:

Plantation Buffet- I really do not like this place. The food's the weakest around and there's some serious racial undertones. That's really all I want to say here. I usually try it every summer, but I just can't do it anymore.

Don't Believe the Hype (Too "Church'd Up" for my tastes):
Neither of these places has bad food necessarily (some of it's actually good), but they're not southern, down-home, soul food joints, either. I see what both places are going for, but I don't want my soul food to be served with beer or wine, or my chicken to be cinnamon-chipotle. This is just me, though. If you disagree, well, put it on your blog.

Five Star Day - If you're a sorority girl from Marietta that wants to pretend to eat soul food, then allow yourself to be fooled by their claim to be "gourmet soul." If you want real soul, eat at any of the places listed above. If you want suburban Atlanta-infected, yuppy recipes, eat at 5SD. If you do eat here, avoid the hypocrisy and stick to brunch.

Mama's Boy - Good food, some creative recipes, but still a bit much for "Southern" dining. The breakfast is good, but beyond that, you're flirting with that not quite soul food border. For lunch, you're still better off at any place above. Your wallet will thank you, too.